Afghanistan: Beauty, In Pain

Afghanistan is a beautiful country. It is mystical, spiritual, rich in heritage and cultural traditions. It is misunderstood and ready for a new beginning. It is in pain, but it is also in hope.

I spent six months in Afghanistan in the fall-winter of 2006. I saw death and destruction alongside rebirth and restoration. I saw unimaginable poverty and sickness, but I also saw inspiring hope and smiles. The tragedy and battle of Afghanistan was playing out before my eyes in the most amazing backdrop – Hindu Kush mountain range.

Hindu Kush stretches upwards in search of the morning sun. Its highest peak is in Pakistan, but even here it soars 6,000 meters (19,000 feet) high.

Covered in snow, the mountains are seemingly calm and asleep…

Dusk and dawn are amazing here… Ragged, pristine beauty evokes images of ancient stories…

Dawn is my favorite time… The air is quiet and the winds are hidden. The only thing present is a distant mullah’s call to prayer. It creates a mystical atmosphere and transforms me to another world – a world where I am still a child, walking the streets of another city, hearing that same call…

This morning walk is the happiest time of the day… You are alone with your thoughts, in the company of heavens and mountains…

Of course, you can never forget your surroundings completely…

Grim reminder of a recent past…

… and one from a more distant time…

Entertainment is scarce, but potent…

For example, a chilling scorpion – camel spider fight…

Outside base, another world exists…

…with its own rules…

…routines…

… and traditions…

This photograph, taken by a colleague of mine, is my favorite. Can you see why?

It has been five years since I left Afghanistan, but this country often visits me in my dreams, in my thoughts… I hope that one day, as sure as the morning sun illuminating the mountains, I can walk its streets again, but this time in a war-free country.

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29 thoughts on “Afghanistan: Beauty, In Pain

  1. Pingback: Is there Ever Enough Praise « Leanne Cole

  2. Thank you for the lovely pictures Yulia. I lived in Yemen and surrounding countries for a long time (from age eight all through my teenage years) and these pictures bring back a lot of memories…amazing ones!

    • I agree, that whole region is extremely interesting, magical… I think that people who have a chance to experience different sides of the world are so fortunate, because it somehow broadens the views on life itself. Glad you had that experience!

      Yulia

  3. It’s the people of the place who bring life to even the calm dawn, and setting sun… These are wonderful pics Yulia and I love the one of the smiling young girl… It is true that we can only hope for the rebirth of a war-free country, from so far… But I feel every wish counts.. And if it is strong enough from billions of hearts, it might even come true one day, not very far in the future…

    • I went there as part of the US forces when I was in the military. Afghanistan will always be a very special place for me. It is very close to the place I was born (Kazakhstan), and I felt surprisingly at home there… You should definitely visit!

  4. Those are lovely pictures Yulia and inspiring too…evokes a strong desire to experience what you have already in the course of your travel..would love to hear more from your trails.. :)

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